Good Cup Team · 13 November 2026
Colonna is the one London roaster we rate World-class among those running the city's best cafés. Calico, Formative, Special Guests, Assembly, Origin, Climpson & Sons and WatchHouse, all rated Top, roast for cafés we rate Outstanding or Excellent.
| Roaster | Roaster level | Its café's level | Farms or coffees on record |
|---|---|---|---|
| Colonna | World-class | Excellent | — |
| Calico | Top | Outstanding | Tatu Estate AA and Kamavindi AA (Kenya) |
| Formative | Top | Outstanding | El Jaragual (Colombia), Fazenda Conquista (Brazil), Mi Finquita (Panama) |
| Special Guests | Top | Outstanding | Finca La Negrita (Colombia); an auction lot |
| Assembly | Top | Excellent | Café Granja La Esperanza (Colombia), Carmen Estate (Panama), Santa Irene (Guatemala) |
| Origin | Top | Excellent | Arsosala, Beija Flor |
| Climpson & Sons | Top | Excellent | — |
| WatchHouse | Top | Excellent | Aquiares (Costa Rica), Artemira (Peru) |
| Ozone | Rising | Excellent | Agricafe (Bolivia), Inglaterra (Brazil) |
| Nostos | Local | Excellent | Alpes Geisha (Panama), Gesha Village (Ethiopia) |
| LIFT | Local | Excellent | Volcan Azul Geisha (Costa Rica) |
We rate roasters on a scale of their own, World-class, Top, Rising and Local, and a café separately, on the people behind its bar, the roasters it pours, its coffees and its equipment. In London the two rarely line up: three of the four cafés we rate Outstanding belong to roasters rated Top, and three cafés rated Excellent belong to roasters rated Local. Every roaster below runs at least one London café we rate Excellent or higher.
Colonna is the one roaster among London's top cafés that we rate World-class, and Colonna & Small's is its own bar. Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, fifth at the 2015 World Barista Championship and a Legend barista on our scale, is behind it. The bar brews by hand and in batches, and guests' reviews are about the coffee. Best for: a world-class roaster at its own bar. Worth knowing: there is one Colonna café, so plan the trip around it.
Calico roasts for one of the four cafés we rate Outstanding in London. Its coffees are Kenyan with the farm on the label: Tatu Estate AA, washed, roasted as a Calico lot, and Peter Mbature's Kamavindi AA, natural. Andrew Wong, UK Cup Tasters Champion 2026, is on its team. Best for: a Top roaster's coffee brewed at the very top level. Worth knowing: the roastery is rated Top, not World-class; the people put the café ahead of its roast.
Formative roasts its own coffee from El Jaragual in Colombia, Fazenda Conquista in Brazil and Mi Finquita in Panama, one of them a farm whose coffee went to a championship. Its café is Outstanding on our scale, with a team that includes Lionel Crasto, third at the UK Barista Championship 2025, and has included Ian Kissick, sixth at the 2024 World Barista Championship. Best for: espresso from a roaster that competes. Worth knowing: hand brewing is not on our record at its café.
Special Guests roasts its own coffee and pours an auction lot and Finca La Negrita's Bourbon Sidra natural from Colombia. Luke Letts, South African Barista Champion 2024, is on its team, and its café is Outstanding on our scale. Best for: rare lots roasted in London. Worth knowing: our reading of the café's menu finds food first.
Assembly roasts its own coffee and names its farms: Café Granja La Esperanza's Sudan Rume in Colombia, Carmen Estate in Panama, Carlos Estrada's Santa Irene in Guatemala, Benancio Chavez's Finca Santa Elena in Mexico. Claire Wallace, third at the 2022 World Barista Championship, is on its team. Best for: named farms from four countries. Worth knowing: its café is Excellent rather than Outstanding on our scale.
Origin, Climpson & Sons and WatchHouse are London roasters rated Top that run more than one café each, all rated Excellent. Origin's three bars put the coffee first and brew by hand. Climpson & Sons brews by hand and on nitro, and its menus lean on food. WatchHouse, with the most cafés of any roaster here, buys from Aquiares in Costa Rica and Artemira in Peru and brews by AeroPress, French press and pour-over; its menus lean on food too. Best for: a roaster's own coffee near wherever you are in London.
Nostos and LIFT are rated Local as roasters, yet both run cafés we rate Excellent, because of what they buy. Nostos pours Janson's Alpes Geisha from Panama, Gesha Village's natural Geisha from Ethiopia and two coffees from Café Granja La Esperanza in Colombia. LIFT pours Volcan Azul's yellow-honey Geisha from Costa Rica. Best for: Geisha from a small roaster. Worth knowing: a Local roaster has less of a track record on our scale; judge it by the coffee in the cup.
Ozone and Scenery are rated Rising. Ozone roasts for four London cafés and buys from Agricafe in Bolivia, Einer Saldivar and Irene Herrera in Peru and Inglaterra in Brazil, brewing on Chemex and Kalita Wave. Scenery buys a decaf from the Mantiqueira collective in Brazil and Don Senel's Milenio from Costa Rica. The Gentlemen Baristas roast their own coffee, rated Local, and keep their café about the coffee.
Square Mile, a London roaster we rate World-class, does not run one of the cafés rated here; we have recorded its coffee at Bare Brew, Kaffeine and Story Coffee. Prufrock roasts nothing and has poured World-class roasters from across Europe, La Cabra, Koppi, Tim Wendelboe and The Coffee Collective among them.
For a world-class London roaster in its own bar, go to Colonna & Small's. For one stop at a London roaster's café, Calico. For espresso from a roaster that competes, Formative. For rare lots, Special Guests; for Geisha, Nostos or LIFT. For named farms, Assembly. For Square Mile, Bare Brew, Kaffeine or Story Coffee.
London's roasters with the most cafés are not the ones with the best single café. WatchHouse runs more cafés than any roaster here and Ozone four, and both lean on food on our reading. The cafés we rate highest belong to roasters that put competition baristas behind the bar, Calico, Formative and Special Guests. If you want to taste a roaster at its best, choose its smallest, most coffee-led bar.
Levels are as of November 2026. Every café and roaster above has a page on Good Cup with its team, its coffees and the cafés that pour it, and the London guide lists every specialty café in the city by level.